Ohio Department of Agriculture (ODA), in partnership with local Soil and Water Conservation Districts like Lucas SWCD, is encouraging farmers in the Maumee River watershed to enroll, or reenroll, in the H2Ohio Phosphorus Reduction Program now through December 15, 2023. 

Through ODA's No Farmer Left Behind initiative, they reached out via a postcard or phone call to every farmer in the 14 counties within the Maumee River watershed who are eligible for H2Ohio. 

On November 8th, ODA Director Brian Baldridge traveled north from Reynoldsburg and spent the day in Lucas County. He called local farmers and spoke to them personally about the significance of the H2Ohio program and why it is so important to participate and ultimately, contribute to the collective effort to improve water quality in our great Lake.

Director Baldridge also met with area politicians and representatives at the Lucas SWCD office and visited a farm to see first-hand some of the best management practices (BMPs) that are incentivized through the H2Ohio program. Lastly, as another tool to reach farmers, Director Baldridge and SWCD staff filled H2Ohio goody bags for local farmers to show them our appreciation during harvest time and to let them know about the program. 

Through this collaborative outreach effort, we asked high school students from the Anthony Wayne Future Farmers of America (FFA) chapter to help deliver the goody bags to local farmers and they took some great pictures to capture those moments! 

It's autumn and the growing season is winding down. Many of the native plants in your gardens and prairies may look spent but don't be fooled by the scraggly appearance -- there are hundreds of seeds on each of your plants that are ready to be dispersed out into the landscape to grow elsewhere. While natural distribution is important, you can also collect some of those seeds to further expand your garden without spending any more money! 

It is easy to do and requires only a few materials you likely already have. You will need: garden snippers, paper bags (ones with handles are helpful) and a permanent marker. You may also want an identification guide for native plants if you're like me and might not remember all that you have planted over the years. 

From there, it is fairly simple by following the step-by-step process below.

1. Identify what plants have seeds that are ready. Late-blooming natives like New England Aster and Goldenrod are still likely blooming and not ready for seed collection.
2. Find the seed head. It should be dark brown and dry. 
3. Either hand-pick or use the snippers to remove the seed head. A rule of thumb is to leave at least 1/3 of the seeds/seed heads on the plant for natural dispersal. 
4. Place the seeds/seed heads in a paper bag and label with the marker the plant species. 
5. Store bag in a cool, dry place until ready to sow later this fall.

Each fall, Rick Bryan, former Lucas SWCD Board Supervisor (2002-2013) and member of the Ohio Soil and Water Conservation Commission, volunteers his time to help with the District's seed collection efforts and then processes/stratifies the seeds to make seed packets for our annual Tree, Shrub and Garden Sale. While collecting seed this month, he shared some helpful tips in the video below!

Some seeds come off the plant ready to sow. Others come inside pods in which case you should open the pods to remove the seeds. And with smaller seeds that are more difficult to see or are inside the flower head, it is easiest to just break up the flower head in your hand and plant everything, hopefully with seeds included. Check out this article from Wild Ones in St. Louis that shares other ideas for separating out the seeds after collecting. 

If you have questions about collecting seed in your garden, contact our office or stop by and we can talk with you more about the process. We can also show you some of the areas that we are preparing for native prairie plantings later this fall! 

A new iteration of the H2Ohio Phosphorus Reduction Program is now underway in the Maumee River Watershed. This updated version of the program has been reworked to be more efficient and easy to use for area agricultural producers, all while maintaining the original goal of reducing the risk of nutrient runoff into the lake.

​The H2Ohio program began as a plan put forth by Governor Mike DeWine to improve
water quality across Ohio. The Ohio Department of Agriculture’s portion of the program was to
lead efforts to reduce phosphorus runoff. This effort has largely focused on the Maumee River
Watershed and Western Lake Erie basin, due to the effects of phosphorus runoff contributing
towards the harmful algal blooms in Lake Erie. ODA’s H2Ohio program incentivizes farmers to
implement proven, science-based, and cost-effective best management practices (BMPs) by
providing financial and technical assistance. Agricultural producers work with their local Soil &
Water Conservation District to determine which BMPs work best for their operation and provide the information to verify the practice’s establishment.

Over 1 million acres were enrolled into the program for the original version of the program in the 14 counties that make up Ohio’s portion of the Maumee River Watershed. With the expansion of the program to include the 10 counties in the Western Lake Erie Basin, the enrolled acres rose to 1.5 million. While each producer can add or subtract additional practices based on what fits their operation, all 1.5 million acres enrolled in the program are required to have a Voluntary Nutrient Management Plan (VNMP). The VNMP is a producer’s ‘ticket’ into the H2Ohio program and helps show the farmer the amount of nutrients in their soil and determines how much (if any) fertilizer needs to be applied. This allows for the producer to maintain their yields while eliminating the over-application of phosphorus and thus reducing their risk of phosphorus runoff from their fields.

Now that the original program contracts for those enrolled in the Maumee Watershed are
coming to an end, ODA has prepared a new iteration of the H2Ohio program for producers to
enroll in. This updated version of the program keeps many of the key details that were
successful in the original version, while re-working those that weren’t, all in the hopes of making the program more stream-lined and easy to use. A major change in this new version is the use of an online portal called ‘MyFarms’. ‘MyFarms’ will be used to manage all the enrollment, VNMP development, contracting, and verification of practices for the H2Ohio program. This is expected to make things easier for everyone involved and should allow us to verify practices quicker and with more precision.

Working with their SWCDs, area producers are working hard to reduce the phosphorus load in
our watersheds by implementing these conservation practices. The Lucas SWCD and the other 13 counties in the Maumee River Watershed are now accepting applications for the H2Ohio program for Crop Years 2024 and 2025. We greatly appreciate all the farmers that have participated in the H2Ohio program and we encourage them and anyone else who is interested to enroll into this next iteration of the program.

Please contact me to learn more and to get started on your enrollment for the program.

Learn more about the H2Ohio program.
Visit our website page. 

We know you are out there. Those of you who have, or are planning to, put conservation on the ground in your backyard. Whether it is installing a rain barrel, composting food and yard waste, planting natives, transitioning lawn to native plants or no-mow grass, bee-keeping, raising chickens, or growing food in traditional garden beds or raised beds -- we want to hear your story! 

Our Backyard Conservation Success Story program is an opportunity to learn from each other's successes and struggles while implementing conservation practices. It is also an opportunity to create a network of people who are good stewards of the land. 2022 was the inaugural year for this program and we are back again, asking you to share your story. It can be as simple as filling out the survey on our website, or as involved as having Lucas SWCD staff visit your property to see and learn about your conservation projects. 

Last year, we heard from 22 Conservation Champions and visited three properties. It was amazing to hear about and see examples of all the amazing work being done by landowners and residents in the area who care deeply about "leaving it better than they found it". 

Here are some excerpts from the 2022 survey from Conservation Champions in our community: 

"We have so many native pollinators visiting daily and at night too. The native plants seem to like the rain barrel water instead of city water."

"I'm learning over time and making yearly changes. Adding clover and drought-tolerant grasses to the yard, adding native plants, and this year no-till vegetable gardening."

"We have reduced the lawn to a minimum. We have a combination of natives and non-natives. Our gutters deposit water into our garden beds. We use a rain barrel and compost our vegetables, grass and leaves. We leave leaf litter for pollinators."

"We pulled ~15 acres out of farmland and converted it to native prairie with trails to walk or horseback-ride. Struggling with non-native invasive plants but seeing lots of pollinators and other native wildlife."

"It's been a somewhat slow process since moving into my house. Overall I think the wildlife are very happy. All improvements have been DYI, sometimes those need upgrades or rethinking if not working as planned. Of course plants and gardening are an ongoing labor of love. With that said, the rabbits have stayed out of my vegetable garden so they must have enough of their own keeping them happy. More Hummingbirds than ever. At least 4 species of snakes. Chipmunks 3 years now. Fox squirrels the past 6 years. Occasionally an opossum, skunk, deer, or wild Turkey. It's my sanctuary."

If you walk into our office, chances are you will see a blue or white barrel (or several) sitting out. These barrels are actually donated food-grade 55-gallon drums that we turn into rain barrels. Rain barrels come in all shapes, sizes, and designs -- but in simplest terms, a rain barrel is a container that captures water off of a roof via a downspout during a rain event. The captured water is most commonly used to water plants, grass, and garden beds but can also be used to wash cars or rinse off outdoor furniture. The only thing you shouldn't do with rain barrel water is drink it -- I repeat, this water is not for human or pet consumption because it could pick-up bacteria or other harmful substances from your roof. 

As mentioned earlier, rain barrels capture water that falls on a roof during a rain event. When a rain barrel is not installed, rain water flows down your downspout either to a lawn/garden bed or the driveway/sidewalk. If your downspouts are buried, the water is then transported to an underground outlet into the storm sewers. If your downspouts direct water into grass or garden beds, sometimes this is okay but other times it can cause flooding or pooling of water depending on the grade and type of soil and the duration/severity of the rain event. When water is directed to the driveway or sidewalk, it cannot penetrate the asphalt or concrete and has no other choice but to runoff. In doing so, it can pick-up pollutants, fertilizers, litter and more on its way to the storm sewers, where it is transported to the nearest waterway untreated and unfiltered.

However, if a rain barrel is installed, it diverts water out of the storm sewers and prevents potential water pollution, flooding, etc. Installing a rain barrel can also save you money. Water is getting more and more expensive these days. However, setting up a rain barrel will reduce the amount you turn on the hose and therefore, put money back in your pocket. 

Now that you know the what and the why, let's get to the how. Rain barrels can be purchased online from many vendors, varying in price and design. You can order one directly from our office for $52 (plus sales tax) by either stopping in the office or ordering one through our online store. These are typically made-to-order so you will be contacted when it is ready to be picked up. You can also participate in one of Toledo/Lucas County Rain Garden Initiative's Make and Take Rain Barrel Workshops, where you get to learn about and make your own barrel. You can follow either Lucas SWCD or Rain Garden Initiative on social media to learn of workshop dates as they are planned. 

Lastly, you can purchase the materials and make one yourself. Check out this video (see below) as we walk you through the steps to making a barrel of your own.

Now that you have the how, we will wrap up with just a few tips and reminders. 

1. Make sure that your barrel is elevated 1-2 feet (enough to fit a watering can underneath the spigot) on a sturdy base like cinder blocks and that it is level. This is especially important if you have children or pets to ensure the barrel doesn't accidently fall over. 
2. If you live in a wooded area or somewhere that chipmunks, mice, or other small critters also live, consider putting a critter guard on the end of your overflow hose to prevent accidental drowning. See this guide to learn how to make one easily! 
3. Take your barrel down at the end of the year (November/December) and either bring it inside or flip it upside down so that no water can collect over winter. Otherwise, water left inside could freeze/thaw and crack the rain barrel. Remember to also reconnect the original downspout piece that was removed during installation. 

If you have questions about rain barrels after reading this or would like to order one for your home, please contact our office at (419) 893-1966.

Proceeds from rain barrel purchases and workshop registrations support your local Rain Garden Initiative. 

"The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago -- the second best time is now". - Chinese Proverb

Whether you are planting one tree, a few, or several hundred seedlings, it is so important to take care as you plant so that your tree(s) can be successful. 

Below are a few tips for you to follow, or be reminded of, when planting a tree. Spring is a great time to plant trees because the temperatures are still cool and there are frequent rain events. Late fall, after leaf drop, is the other preferred time to plant because the tree is entering its dormant state for the winter. For evergreens, early spring is the preferred planting time.

1. First, prior to planting, you must decide where you want the tree to grow while also considering the site conditions the tree species will need to be successful (like sun, shade, dry soil, wet soil, adequate space, etc.). After you have your site selected and prior to digging, it is required by law to check for underground utilities by calling 8-1-1. 

2.  Identify the trunk flare on your tree, or where the trunk expands at the base of the tree. This should be at, or slightly above, grade once in the ground. Once identified, use the trunk flare as a way to measure how deep to dig the hole. The hole should also be 2-3 times wider than the root ball, so that the roots have room to expand easily. 

3. Inspect the roots of the tree prior to planting. If there is a burlap bag, plastic container, or wire cage around the roots, it MUST be removed prior to planting. If the roots have developed a circular pattern, try to free them and straighten. For bareroot seedlings, ensure the roots are all separated and straightened. 

4. While holding the root ball, place the tree inside the hole and have a friend or family member ensure that it is straight. Also, ensure the hole is the correct height so that the trunk flare is at, or just slightly above, ground level. 

5. Fill the hole with soil around the roots of the tree, while either pressing or gently stepping on each layer around the root ball to remove any air pockets that could otherwise dry out the roots. Depending on the size of the tree and hole, you could also water as you add soil into the hole to eliminate air pockets.  

6. Once the hole has been filled and the trunk flare is confirmed to be visible at, or slightly above grade, add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch (leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips) around the tree to hold moisture, moderate soil temperatures, and reduce weed/grass competition. The mulch layer should start 2 inches away from the base of the tree to avoid bark decay. Do not volcano mulch your new tree! Instead, think more like a donut around the base of the tree. Learn more about proper mulching, and why volcano mulching is bad, in this article. 

Other things to consider include staking your new tree, especially seedlings, to help stabilize and promote straight growth. However, stakes and ties should be flexible and secured on the lower half of the tree and also removed after a year of growth. You could also add a tree shelter around the tree if wind or wildlife are a concern. 

At this point, your new tree is planted and it is time to water, monitor for any signs of stress, and watch it grow. Water your new tree once a week, barring rain, and more often during hot and/or windy weather. Some trees may require pruning but avoid doing so until after one year of growth in the new location. 

We are always willing to help with your tree questions but if we can't answer it, there are other great resources available to you. You can locate and contact a local certified arborist or reach out to the OSU Extension horticultural office at (419) 578-6783. 

In case you hadn't heard yet, it is Ohio Native Plant Month! In July 2019, Ohio Governor Mike DeWine designated the month of April as Ohio Native Plant Month, making it the first state in the Country to have a law recognizing the importance of native plants for a whole month. 

Well, it is 2023 and here we are still celebrating native plants in Ohio and the incredible role they play in our environment! Native plants are plants that occur naturally in an area and that have evolved in harmony with wildlife to coexist and support one another. They provide many benefits, so many that I'll highlight just a few. 

• Native plants have deep and extensive root systems that stabilize soil and provide pathways for water and microorganisms living in the soil. 
• Native plants, because they have evolved to survive in our region's climate, require little to no watering and no fertilizing to be successful. 
• Native plants provide food for wildlife -- like leaves for caterpillars, nectar and pollen for bees, butterflies and other pollinators, and seeds for birds in the winter months.

Ohio is home to almost 2,000 different species of native plants which include flowers, vines, grasses, shrubs, and trees. It is critical now more than ever, to choose native this spring when making landscaping decisions. If you're wondering, how do I "choose native"? There are several native plant sales going on already this spring that have a fantastic variety of native flowers, grasses, shrubs and trees to choose from! Listed below are a few of those sales:

• Lucas SWCD's very own Backyard Conservation & Native Plant Sale: order online by May 5th at https://lswcd-natives.square.site/. Pick-up is May 12th. 
• The Toledo Zoo's Wild Toledo Native Plant Sale: order online at https://wildtoledo.org/ and pick-up plants starting April 29th.
• Wood County Parks Friends Plant Sale: May 13th from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM at the Wood County Fairgrounds in Bowling Green. 
• Oak Openings Blue Week Native Plant Sale: May 20th (12-4 PM) and May 21st (10 AM - 12 PM) at Blue Creek Seed Nursery in Whitehouse, Ohio.  
• Toledo Public Schools Natural Resource Technology Center Student Plant Sale: stay tuned for more information on this one! 

If you have questions or need recommendations on what native plants to place in your landscape, contact our office and we are happy to help! We will also be highlighting some of our staff's favorite native plants through the month of April. Follow along on our social media @LucasSWCD.  

Happy planting!

Simply put, native plants are those that have existed in an area for a long enough time to have evolved in harmony with the soil, climate, and other plants and animals surrounding them.

Native plants offer many benefits to the landscape, wildlife, and to us -- they attract beneficial insects and pollinators and also provide seeds and berries to wildlife; native plants' root systems are much longer than non-native counterparts and are therefore able to help stabilize soil, retain more water, and bring nutrients out of the soil. Also, native plants are adapted to the existing soil conditions as well as climate and after establishment, should not require watering or fertilization to see success. 

​Now that we know the what and the why, let's get to some myth-busting and uncover the truth about native plants. Below are a few myths, or reasons, we hear as to why people often choose not to plant natives. 

Myth #1: Native plants look unkempt and unattractive (aka "weedy"). Sure, some native plants can look more unkempt than others but this is true of non-native plants as well if they are not properly maintained. Native plants are beautiful! They offer so many colors, textures, and bloom times throughout the year. The trick is to find the natives that you like and then before purchasing them, do your homework -- find out how tall they get or if they tend to spread uncontrollably, how long they bloom, when they bloom, the color of the bloom, etc. If space is limited, start with plants that stay on the shorter side. And understand that all plants need some sort of maintenance in terms of pruning/trimming, especially when they are planted as landscape plants.

It is also okay to mix native and non-native (not invasive, there's a big difference!) plants in your landscape. Some very attractive and successful gardens include combinations of more traditional landscape plants mixed in with natives. Experts say 75% natives and 25% non-natives is an ideal ratio. And of course, I do concur. However, in my opinion, 75% non-natives and 25% natives is better than 100% non-natives. Baby-steps are better than no steps at all -- over time we can shoot for the stars!

Myth #2: It is too hard to find native plants for purchase. Yes, maybe this was once the case, but sources of native plants are now more common. If you live in and around Lucas County, there are several agencies and organizations that either sell native plants at various times of the year or put out lists as planting season begins of where to get them. The Toledo Zoo, Wood County Parks District, Oak Openings Green Ribbon Initiative, and the Lucas SWCD have native plant sales annually. You can also find a comprehensive list of these and other sources of native plants here. There are also plant exchanges you can join to get free plants!

Myth #3: Native plants are too hard to maintain. Keep in mind, all plants need some form of maintenance but once established, native plants require much less than non-native plants simply for the fact that they are built for growing in our climate and conditions. It is also important to remember that new native plants should be watered regularly until they are fully established. But once established and growing, they rarely need watering, if ever. Also, certain plants benefit from dead-heading or dividing just as many non-native plants do.

Also, no fertilization is required for native plants to be successful; though mulching does help keep them healthy. Bottom line, if maintenance is a concern, do your homework and learn about the plants you are considering to make sure they are right for the size and conditions of your intended planting site. 

Myth #4: The insects that native plants bring to your yard are bad. Repeat after me… INSECTS ARE GOOD! I know some of us may have been raised to think of insects as big, bad, creepy-crawly, biting, chill-inducing, bug-eyed, house-eating, critters.  But, the truth of the matter is, without them, Earth as we know it would not exist. Insects are a food source for countless animals. Insects also help decompose materials and return them to the soil as part of the natural cycle of life. Insects are often pollinators; it is believed that one in every three bites of food we take is as a result of pollination! Simply put, insects are cool and you want them in your yard!  If bee allergies are a concern, obviously choose your planting sites wisely to reduce the risk of stings.  

Myth #5: To make a difference, I have to plant a whole field of native plants/flowers. While a whole field planted in natives is amazing, so is a few natives sprinkled in your existing landscape or transitioning a portion of lawn into a small, native prairie -- every native plant that is added back to the landscape has a purpose and a benefit to all living creatures and the environment!

If this has inspired you to plant native this spring, fantastic! If you still have questions about native plants, please contact our office at (419) 893-1966. ​

This month's blog is tailored to those of you who would consider yourself new to gardening or a beginner. But for those seasoned gardeners out there, below you'll find some great reminders! ​

It is so easy, even for us experienced gardeners, to get excited by all the choices and to buy, buy, buy so many plants and seeds that we could plant 10 gardens. And then we end up tucking our new plants willy-nilly into any place they might (or might not) fit or we give them away. Or, even worse, the poor things sometimes get put in a corner only to be forgotten and then found mid-summer shriveled beyond redemption. Do not fall into that trap, trust me!  Your life will be so much easier and you will have a much more successful beginner garden.

Now, write down a list of vegetables or fruits that you might want to grow -- things that you and your family like to eat. A suggested list of easy to grow produce, as well as how to grow by either direct seeding into the garden bed or transplants, include:

• Swiss chard (direct seed or transplants)
• Tomatoes (transplants)
• Peppers (transplants)
• Egg-plants (transplants)
• Radishes (direct seed)
• Green beans (direct seed)
• Peas (direct seed)
• Beets (direct seed or transplants)
• Lettuce and spinach: both like cool weather (direct seed or transplants)
• Kohlrabi (direct seed or transplants)
• Bush zucchini and patio cucumbers (transplants)

Next, it is time to do some research. Look online for well-known garden supply centers. If you like paper, request a catalogue. If not, peruse their websites looking for your chosen favorites. These sites often will tell you the growing specifications for each plant and you will possibly get sidetracked by all of the choices out there. However, gently pull yourself back to your goal.  There is always next year to spread your wings. This is not to say you can’t change your mind… just be cautious. 

Try to not get overwhelmed by all the information available to you online or in catalogues. Here is a list of just a few things you will want to learn about each of the plants you are considering:

• How tall and wide the plant might get
• What it tastes like
• If it needs support
• How much water it needs
• What kind of soil it likes
• How much sun it likes
• How deeply to plant it
• When to plant it
• Diseases it is prone to

Then, compare these specifications of the plants you thought about growing and weed out (pun intended :) those that won’t fit (unless that is the only type of plant you want to grow in your garden this year). 

• For example, corn is primarily wind-pollinated and needs a bit of space.  From my research (I rarely grow corn – but have in the past) you could get away with planting a 4’ X 4’ block of corn.
• Other challenging plants to grow in small spaces are watermelons, pumpkins, cucumbers, winter squash, cantaloupe, and similar vining plants.  Not only do they take up a lot of space but they are prone (at least in this region) to squash vine borer and squash bugs.  My advice, to plan for success, is that you don’t need this frustration and to save these plants for later when you have more experience. That said, if you still want to grow them, look for space saving varieties that you can also trellis. 

Enjoy this time of gardening leisure and excitement! If you don't already have it on your calendar, plan to attend Toledo GROWs Annual Seed Swap event on February 25th at Scott High School from 12-3pm. More information on this event can be found here.

Please reach out to me if you have questions about any of the information mentioned above. 

This month's Staff Spotlight features Dj Mears, Lucas SWCD's Drainage and Agricultural Conservationist. 

How long have you worked for Lucas SWCD?
I will be entering my 18th year of total service to the District. My first full-time employment was with the District from 1978 to 1980.

What did you do prior to joining the team at Lucas SWCD?
I worked for 27 years at the Wood County Engineers Office, from 1980 to 2007.  I was very blessed as a high school student, my senior year, when I was placed to work at the Wood SWCD for a high school internship. This led to my career in conservation both professionally and as a farmer!  I would like to thank, Mr. Shaffer, my Agriculture Business Teacher for taking an interest in my future career.  He mentored me into the conservation field that I have enjoyed for forty-seven years.

What do you like most about your job?
I enjoy working with my agriculture peers to establish conservation practices into our landscape.  In the history of Lucas County Ditch Maintenance program, there has been no systematic approach to existing drainage improvements. I pledge to approach each project in a systematic way and a policy to meet with each abutting property owner on every maintenance ditch improvement.  I want to be like my teacher Mr. Shaffer who took personal interest in the future of drainage projects.

What is something you enjoy doing outside of work?
I am a husband and grandfather to four grandkids and also a 4th generation family farmer. I am active in church and have been involved in mission trips to South America, Latin America and Africa.

Stop by the office and say hi to Dj! You can also email him at DMears@co.lucas.oh.us or call at (419) 893-1966 ext. 4# or (419) 344-2371.