Composting Basics
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What is compost?
Compost is simply recycled organic matter that is used to improve soil and therefore, plants. Why should you compost? One reason is that it cuts down on waste going to the landfills. Now, there are a lot of numbers out there but let’s just say the vast majority of food in the United States is thrown in the garbage. Most of that is sent to landfills where, over time, it releases greenhouse gases such as methane and carbon dioxide. Some other reasons for composting include saving you money because you won’t need to purchase as much, if any, fertilizer. It can also cut down on pesticide use. After all, healthy soil leads to healthy plants and the healthier the plant, the better they can resist insect damage. In fact, there are those that say insect pests are attracted more to struggling plants than to healthy. Compost also feeds beneficial soil organisms which further break down the organic matter into components that can be used by the plants. Fortunately, compost will typically have a wide spectrum of nutrients. And finally, compost improves your soil’s ability to retain the correct amount of water. So, whether you have sandy soil or clay soil, it will help retain the right amount of water for your plants. |
How to compost:
First, you will need space in your yard. The minimum size of a bin or pile should be 3ft in each direction. The maximum size is around 5ft in each direction. You will also need access to organic plant material. These fall into two groups: browns and greens. The browns are high in carbon while the greens are high in nitrogen. The ideal ratio is two to three parts brown to one part green. The following is a list of brown vs green material. It’s important to note that the smaller you chop your material, the faster it will compost.
First, you will need space in your yard. The minimum size of a bin or pile should be 3ft in each direction. The maximum size is around 5ft in each direction. You will also need access to organic plant material. These fall into two groups: browns and greens. The browns are high in carbon while the greens are high in nitrogen. The ideal ratio is two to three parts brown to one part green. The following is a list of brown vs green material. It’s important to note that the smaller you chop your material, the faster it will compost.
Combine the material in the above ratio. Some people layer the materials and some don’t. If you are the layering sort, try to put the browns on the bottom, then the greens on top, then more browns… you get the point. If you haven’t been saving up materials, your pile might look measly and that’s to be expected at this point. Over time, keep adding material until it’s about 3' x 3'.
Hot vs. Cold Pile:
A cold pile won’t kill weed seeds and certain pathogens. A hot pile will kill many pathogens and many weed seeds. If you choose to have a cold pile you will just let it sit, occasionally watering it until it is like a wrung-out sponge. You might continue to add materials as the pile shrinks, however continuing to add materials will lengthen the time it takes to become compost.
If you want a hot pile, there is a little bit of work involved, but not much. First, give it a squirt of water to get it damp (your goal is to keep it damp throughout the process), then let it sit for a couple weeks to settle. It is probable that it will begin to heat up in the center. After that, you will turn your pile. This happens when you stick a garden fork in it, lift up, and flip it over several times, trying to mix the outside material into the center. If you have the ratio right, the pile should heat up again in the center. Continue doing this until it no longer heats up. By this point you should have finished compost.
Your finished compost should have little to no recognizable pieces in it. You might have the stray eggshell that you forgot to crush or an avocado or peach pit but otherwise it should be somewhat homogenous and ready to use in your garden or outside pots.
Bin vs. No Bin:
Some of this depends on aesthetics. Bins tend to be more attractive than piles so if this is important to you, or more importantly, to your neighbors, by all means – get a bin. Make sure it has aeration holes and easy access for turning and removing finished compost. You can also make your own containment system out of fencing, wood, pallets (heat-treated only), garbage cans, etc. They aren’t as visually appealing but provide some neatness and organization to your pile(s).
Hot vs. Cold Pile:
A cold pile won’t kill weed seeds and certain pathogens. A hot pile will kill many pathogens and many weed seeds. If you choose to have a cold pile you will just let it sit, occasionally watering it until it is like a wrung-out sponge. You might continue to add materials as the pile shrinks, however continuing to add materials will lengthen the time it takes to become compost.
If you want a hot pile, there is a little bit of work involved, but not much. First, give it a squirt of water to get it damp (your goal is to keep it damp throughout the process), then let it sit for a couple weeks to settle. It is probable that it will begin to heat up in the center. After that, you will turn your pile. This happens when you stick a garden fork in it, lift up, and flip it over several times, trying to mix the outside material into the center. If you have the ratio right, the pile should heat up again in the center. Continue doing this until it no longer heats up. By this point you should have finished compost.
Your finished compost should have little to no recognizable pieces in it. You might have the stray eggshell that you forgot to crush or an avocado or peach pit but otherwise it should be somewhat homogenous and ready to use in your garden or outside pots.
Bin vs. No Bin:
Some of this depends on aesthetics. Bins tend to be more attractive than piles so if this is important to you, or more importantly, to your neighbors, by all means – get a bin. Make sure it has aeration holes and easy access for turning and removing finished compost. You can also make your own containment system out of fencing, wood, pallets (heat-treated only), garbage cans, etc. They aren’t as visually appealing but provide some neatness and organization to your pile(s).
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What should not go into your compost?
Do not put meat, oils, dairy, bones, and other animal products into your compost pile. Some people add manure from herbivores such as rabbits, cows, and horses. Never add manures from carnivores or omnivores. Don’t add treated wood or plants that were treated with herbicides or pesticides. Too much cooked food (I’m not thinking plain cooked vegetables here) could also become a problem as the neighborhood critters might think you had set dinner out for them. This is not an exhaustive list however it will get you started. |
Troubleshooting:
- If your hot pile is not heating up, check the moisture. If it’s dry, moisten it. If it is damp, mix in some greens.
- If your pile stinks, it’s possible it is either too wet or you have added too many greens. In either case, add some browns and turn it.
- You’ve attracted critters. Did you add animal products or yummy tasting food from your dinner, dairy, meat, fish, bones, etc.? If so, don't anymore :)
- Another way to deter critters, cover or bury food scraps when you add materials to your pile.
If you have questions about composting or want to learn more, contact our office at (419) 893-1966.
